Mileage after changing oil for winter storage

Tech section strictly for the FJR. Everything from oil changes & suspension setup's to removing sheep hair from hard to reach places on the bike so that your wife never finds out.
Canadian FJR
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FJRModel: 2018 FJR-1300ES, 2010 Ural Gear Up, 2003
Yamaha FJR-1300, 2001 Kawasaki KLR-650 (Gone to a new home), 1997 Suzuki TL-1000s (Gone but not forgotten), 1976 Honda 400 Four, 1968 Honda C-50 Step-thru
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Re: Mileage after changing oil for winter storage

Post by Canadian FJR »

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FJRoss
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FJRModel: 2011 FJR 1300
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Re: Mileage after changing oil for winter storage

Post by FJRoss »

Don't know how much I agree with all of the Amsoil winterizing instructions. Advertizing to sell Amsoil "stuff".

Oil and filter... If the oil is reasonably fresh, it doesn't matter, IMO. After all, what is the difference having used oil sitting in the bike in the winter vs in the summer. Nothing magic happens when it gets cold other than chemical reactions proceeding more slowly. If near time to change it then I would do so... Modern oils are good at neutralizing acids. I do make a point to get the engine and oil well heated up before shutting it down for the last time. Serves to expel condensed moisture and volatile hydrocarbon residues out of the engine. Also blows any condensed moisture out of the exhaust.

Fuel stabilizer - easy to do although I wouldn't expect much to happen as long as the tank is FULL and the fuel contains ethanol which will help keep water from separating (as long as there isn't too much). I use it (but not Amsoil product) - Stabil or the Canadian tire knockoff.

Do NOT use a trickle charger as suggested by Amsoil!! A battery tender will safely maintain a battery but a trickle charger will overcharge it and kill it. Perhaps it is semantics but I consider a trickle charger to be very different from a tender. (I don't use either and don't remove the battery. Low self-discharge rate for a modern AGM battery and FJR has low parasitic draw. I do a top-up slow charge maybe twice over the winter.) The bit about it being bad to store the battery on a floor... Old wives tale - perhaps valid before battery cases were made from completely non-porous and non-conductive plastic. Should be stored where it is dry and can't freeze.

They mention doing what is necessary to keep critters out of the exhaust. More common issue is nesting in the air intake. Good idea to block ingress points where possible. They can make a mess of wiring and upholstery!! Some say mothballs on the floor under the bike and then a cover over the bike. I use a cover but haven't had a problem so haven't tried mothballs.

Other thing I do is resist the temptation to start the bike over the winter. Nice to hear it run and dream about warmer times to come but unless you let it run long enough to THOROUGHLY warm up oil and exhaust, you will be left with moisture (combustion byproduct) in the oil and exhaust system.
Angus_McL, N4HHE, and CollingsBob loved this
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