Tech section strictly for the FJR. Everything from oil changes & suspension setup's to removing sheep hair from hard to reach places on the bike so that your wife never finds out.
wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Tue Jul 13, 2021 7:05 pm
How come the border's still closed then? You hosers angry that Tampa's Canadiens beat your Canadiens??
If it wasn’t for all the Canadiens Snowbirds in Tampa there wouldn’t even be a hockey team in Tampa. If you showed a true Florida native a hockey puck they probably try to eat it.
That one particular Russian is so damn big that they might as well just covered the mouth of the net with a 1” thick sheet of plywood.
As far as the border still being closed this is what happens when we let a former substitute art teacher run our country.
yamafitter wrote: ↑Thu Jun 17, 2021 5:59 pm
I had my 2006 Antique FJR apart to service the rear suspension and had the swingarm out and a bunch of other stuff. After reassembly I had two error codes, Shift 22 & Shift 26. I checked out the shift foot switch and it appears to be defective. Basically the switch is a rheostat and the wiper that is supposed to change resistance when the shifter is operated has gone open. I called a local dealer and had heart palputations when I got quoted over $500 CAD for a new one and even if I ordered it the part is on backorder. The resale for a 15 year old AE is not much more than that.
I checked out all the online sites for used parts but being an AE specific part the pickings were very thin and I couldn’t find the part I was looking for. Fortunately I have my old mountain bike that I don't use anymore since getting my Intense Tazer e-MTB and the market is very hot. I should be able to get enough money out of my Kona Stinky Delux to pay for the switch. I went to the Ron Ayers website and was able for save over $100 and have it delivered right to my door. The error code Shift 26 should clear once I bleed the clutch system a few more times with luck.
I am really hoping to have the FJR functional before the Canada-USA border opens.
My bike, 08 AE just had the fault code SH-26 show up after sitting in garage on a battery tender for 2 months. I planned on flushing the clutch fluid this winter. Maybe I am a bit late. I'm guessing that the old fluid got something dirty or stuck while sitting dormant causing the fault code.
This AE is new to me and I have a few questions for anyone in the know.
1- I've heard of a way to bleed clutch by using the ignition and brake. Is this the Diagnostic code # SH--63?
2- Looks like I need the YCCS test coupler #90890-03149 in order to perform YCCS diag codes, or actions. Does anyone make them or know of a work around?
The test coupler is simply the ABS test harness, or you can use a jumper like with the ABS. The connector is the same as the ABS test connector on the bike, but it is black instead of natural colour. It is located near the glove box. I don't think you need it to bleed the clutch, but to fine tune some parameters like idle speed thresholds, etc.
Clutch fluid on FJR's is often neglected, and I suspect those with AE's don't bleed it that often.... two year maintenance schedule. I've never owned an AE so can't help you that much..... FJRPittsburgh or Yamafitter might come to the white phone.......
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Keep yer stick on the ice........... (Red Green)
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raYzerman wrote: ↑Wed Feb 02, 2022 9:15 am
The test coupler is simply the ABS test harness, or you can use a jumper like with the ABS. The connector is the same as the ABS test connector on the bike, but it is black instead of natural colour. It is located near the glove box. I don't think you need it to bleed the clutch, but to fine tune some parameters like idle speed thresholds, etc.
Clutch fluid on FJR's is often neglected, and I suspect those with AE's don't bleed it that often.... two year maintenance schedule. I've never owned an AE so can't help you that much..... FJRPittsburgh or Yamafitter might come to the white phone.......
Thanks Ray. I just got a chance to look at FSM and a simple jumper wire like you said. Perfect. Thanks again.
To bleed the clutch fluid using the ignition key, here are the instructions sent to me by Brodie that worked perfectly.
1. Bleedscrew closed
2. Key switch on
3. Bleedscrew open
4. Bleedscrew closed
5. Key switch off
6. 10 second pause
7. Repeat
Continue to feed fluid into the clutch reservoir so you don't allow air into the system.
Simple one man job. But you'll be the simple one here instead of me.
Thanks Jeff.
That makes sense. I've heard if this before. I will try it as soon as I get a chance.
Edited ... No point leaving the ignition on. The clutch actuator is cycled on and off immediately.
Ignore me, my statement is wrong when doing the job using diagnostic stuff. Thanks, raYzerman.
You can see the movement when not in diagnostic mode in a short video, click the image below.
Sorry for my unintentional misleading post.
Last edited by mcatrophy on Tue Feb 08, 2022 10:01 am, edited 2 times in total.
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mcatrophy 2018 FJR1300AS - AE in the USA, if only they could have one . 2014 FJR1300AS2010 FJR1300AS2006 FJR1300AS'02 Trophy 1200'01 Bonnevill'55 Tiger Cub My web site
raYzerman wrote: ↑Tue Feb 08, 2022 9:35 am
IF you go there, with the diagnostic connector to make software adjustments, might want to have a read..... error in FSM.
Ah. RTFM. Something I always tried to teach my kids. Pity I didn't heed my own advice. B*gg*r.
wheatonFJR loved this
mcatrophy 2018 FJR1300AS - AE in the USA, if only they could have one . 2014 FJR1300AS2010 FJR1300AS2006 FJR1300AS'02 Trophy 1200'01 Bonnevill'55 Tiger Cub My web site