fork seal replacement / racetech gold valve

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Jalingo
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fork seal replacement / racetech gold valve

Post by Jalingo » Tue Jun 30, 2020 2:29 pm

Hi Guys
hope everybody doing good in those uncertain times

on my 2006 FJR with roughly 30k miles ,I'm about to change the fork seals.

forks have the racetech gold valve on them , been installed by a pro 2 years ago , he didn't change the seals

my questions are :

- what do I have to replace beside the seals , dust seals , seal retaining clips ?

- Is the gold valve setup different than the standard set up ?

- Extra gold valve parts that I have to be aware of ?

- Is the seal retaining clip called ring snap at Yamaha ? part number : 4SV-23156-00-00 ?

- Is the inner and outer bushing are the Yamaha metal slides 1 and 2 ?
part number :
slide 1 : 4SV-23125-10-00
slide 2 : 3P6-23125-00-00

what fork oil you guys recommend me ?
( I do a lot of gymkhana with the FJR and I ride stiff suspensions, have a rear Ohlins suspension that is set for 2up and pretty stiff when alone , that how I like it )

thank you guys for the future answers and hope to see somebody around one of those days :D :D

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Uncle Hud
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Re: fork seal replacement / racetech gold valve

Post by Uncle Hud » Tue Jun 30, 2020 2:59 pm

Jalingo wrote:
Tue Jun 30, 2020 2:29 pm
... <snip> ... thank you guys for the future answers and hope to see somebody around one of those days :D :D
See you at this?

Others, far more knowledgeable than me, will answer your fork seal question. Beware of fork advice from gixxerjasen.
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wheatonFJR
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Re: fork seal replacement / racetech gold valve

Post by wheatonFJR » Tue Jun 30, 2020 3:13 pm

Uncle Hud wrote:
Tue Jun 30, 2020 2:59 pm
Jalingo wrote:
Tue Jun 30, 2020 2:29 pm
... <snip> ... thank you guys for the future answers and hope to see somebody around one of those days :D :D
See you at this?

Others, far more knowledgeable than me, will answer your fork seal question. Beware of fork advice from gixxerjasen.
Oh, I don't know. One little bitty issue and he is likely much the wiser now.
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FJRoss
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Re: fork seal replacement / racetech gold valve

Post by FJRoss » Tue Jun 30, 2020 4:57 pm

At 30,000 miles, you are due for fresh fork oil but why are you replacing fork seals? If it is a minor leak, try a SealMate (or equivalent). Seals should not be worn out although dirt between the lip of the seal and the fork tube can cause a slow leak (SealMate can fix that). Youtube video for a using a SealMate on a 2006 FJR. Easier to do if you have the fork off to change fork oil.



With conventional fork innards, I used to use Bel-Ray 5W fork oil. For my Traxxion Dynamics AK-20, they recommend Maxima 125/150. No idea what Racetech wants you to use. Note: When Traxxion does Gen II forks, they only use the upper and lower bushings (slides). Middle not used and I haven't missed it. Again, I don't know about Racetech but there are no issues with the AK-20s. (Easier to do without the middle bushing!!)
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raYzerman
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Re: fork seal replacement / racetech gold valve

Post by raYzerman » Tue Jun 30, 2020 5:24 pm

I responded in the other sandbox.
AT 30k miles, you are due for a cleaning and new oil and lower bushings will be worn.
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AuburnFJR
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Re: fork seal replacement / racetech gold valve

Post by AuburnFJR » Wed Jul 01, 2020 10:33 am

you have to have the right tool for torquing the bottom bolt. If you don't have one, make it.

You need a 26MM socket, 2 feet of 1/2 inch steel tubing, and a 3/8" socket adapter. Weld the adapter at one end of the tubing, center the other end of the tubing on the bottom of the socket and weld it. The center of the fork cartridge will go through the opening on the socket inside the tubing, allowing you to put a breaker bar on the socket adapter to hole the cartridge while torquing the bottom nut to 25 foot lbs. You also need a seal driver to drive the middle busing into place, and the seal. Make sure you get the seal installed the correct way so it is sealing. Lot's of info and pictures on this site to follow.
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raYzerman
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Re: fork seal replacement / racetech gold valve

Post by raYzerman » Wed Jul 01, 2020 4:33 pm

Alternate method of removing lower bolt, air or electric impact gun (you need speed), first crank down preload all the way, and even have someone compress the fork while you use the impact gun. Alternate tool for holding the cartridge, ~16" piece of 1" thin-wall square tubing, cut slits up the corners about 1/2" and flare out the resulting tabs to 26-27mm. Slip it over the brass nut and it will hold while you loosen the lower bolt..
Note this will not work for 2016 A - up, no nut.
If I could suggest deviating from the torque of the lower bolt when reinstalling, snug it up against the copper washer, snug a little more and done... 20 ft. lbs. plenty... works much like a crush washer... we've had a couple of guys strip the aluminum valve on the bottom of the cartridge and you will have a heck of a time finding one, may have to buy whole new cartridge $$$.
Note 2016A-up, torque has been reduced to 17 ft. lbs. If you damage one of those, you're definitely getting a new cartridge due to design (I will post elsewhere my newly discovered knowledge).
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Keep yer stick on the ice........... (Red Green)
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.

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