2020 FJRiders.com Calendar Contest is underway! Vote Here!

Tips for Changine Fork Seals/Bushings, Gen 3, A-Model

Tech section strictly for the FJR. Everything from oil changes & suspension setup's to removing sheep hair from hard to reach places on the bike so that your wife never finds out.
Post Reply
User avatar
Hppants
Contributor
Veteran
Posts: 2394
Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2016 9:22 pm
FJRModel: 2014
x 2845
x 2220

Tips for Changine Fork Seals/Bushings, Gen 3, A-Model

Post by Hppants » Fri Sep 27, 2019 5:51 pm

Just went through this project, thought I'd throw out a few tips that were not apparent in the Service Manual. This is not a hard job, and you don't need any special expensive tools, although I did make a couple of tools out of inexpensive, readily available materials.

1. I did NOT remove the fork cap or dampening assembly from the upper fork tube. Instead, I used my impact wrench to remove the bolt underneath the lower fork tube that holds the piston in place. After re-assembly, you have to wiggle the piston into its recess for the lower fork tube, and then I used a small funnel to fill the fork with the prescribed amount of oil through that lower hole. Once the upper fork tube and the lower fork tube were split, I simply ran some solvent through the entire upper tube assembly to clean it. Same process for the side that has the dampening rod in it.

2. I did replace all of the bushings because I bought them, but honestly, the lower bushing (the one that rides up and down with the upper fork tube) was the only one with ANY wear on it. The middle and upper bushings had absolutely ZERO wear on them, and I would have no problem re-using them going forward.

3. I went to the Auto Parts house and bought a 2" exhaust tip. It flairs out at the end, so I cut that end off. The pipe itself is 1/16" wall thickness and it is perfect for driving in the middle bushing. Incidentally, it doesn't take much pressure to install the middle bushing - the "driver" is more like a guide.

4. I took some emory cloth and very lightly sanded a couple of spots on the upper fork tube where the triple clamps are installed, and there was a few small scratches on the tube. My thought was to make sure that the new fork seal had a very smooth ride down the upper tube in route to the lower fork leg. Maybe overkill, but the last thing you want is a nick on your brand new fork seal.

5. I used a piece of 2" PVC pipe (schedule 40) for the fork seal driver. I cut a slot in it, and then used my wife's hair dryer (our secret, please) to mold it to fit the fork seal. I think it came out pretty good:

Image

I put a VERY light coat of waterproof lithium grease on the bushings, and on both sides of the seals to help with the install. I did not have to use a hammer of any kind to get anything installed. Just the weight of the drivers sliding them up and down.

6. I did buy the brass washers for the lower piston bolt, to make sure that they do not leak. The spring held enough tension against the piston to allow me to torque the lower bolt to the prescribed 25 ft. pds.

7. I went with the Showa (Honda) 8 weight oil, which I believe is just a smidge heavier than the stock oil. I think it makes the dampening much smoother than the stock oil, especially when the bike is pushed or heavily loaded.

8. Finally, I put a good coat of car wax (Nu Finish) on my lower fork legs. Let it dry before removing - I find this makes it much easier to clean off the bugs and dirt/grime after a long ride.

By the way, the next "long ride" starts Thursday. Woohoo!!!
wheatonFJR, Bounce, and gixxerjasen loved this
"I guess it comes down to a simple choice, really. Get busy living. Or get busy dying."
- Andy Dufresne, Shawshank Redemption

Image

User avatar
Bounce
Veteran
Posts: 876
Joined: Sat Jan 19, 2013 10:19 am
FJRModel: 2003
x 460
x 300

Re: Tips for Changine Fork Seals/Bushings, Gen 3, A-Model

Post by Bounce » Sat Sep 28, 2019 10:26 am

Ross Kean had a PDF archive of FJRed's write up from some time back. He was nice enough to let me host it on FJR-Tips.org

http://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/maint.html
Hppants loved this

User avatar
Hppants
Contributor
Veteran
Posts: 2394
Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2016 9:22 pm
FJRModel: 2014
x 2845
x 2220

Re: Tips for Changine Fork Seals/Bushings, Gen 3, A-Model

Post by Hppants » Sat Sep 28, 2019 1:13 pm

Ross emailed me the PDF, and I used that to really familiarize myself with the fork assembly before starting.
Bounce loved this
"I guess it comes down to a simple choice, really. Get busy living. Or get busy dying."
- Andy Dufresne, Shawshank Redemption

Image

philharmonic
Casual Rider
Posts: 133
Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2018 10:53 pm
FJRModel: 07 FJR1300
x 122
x 127

Re: Tips for Changine Fork Seals/Bushings, Gen 3, A-Model

Post by philharmonic » Mon Sep 30, 2019 3:13 am

Where in the world did you get the idea to forego disassembling the upperparts of the forks. Seems genius to me.
I have met the enemy, and it is me.

User avatar
raYzerman
Contributor
Veteran
Posts: 3644
Joined: Mon Mar 18, 2013 10:49 am
FJRModel: 2014 A Root Beer, 2009 CBF1000A
Location: Millgrove, Ontario, CA
x 920
x 2395

Re: Tips for Changine Fork Seals/Bushings, Gen 3, A-Model

Post by raYzerman » Mon Sep 30, 2019 1:52 pm

Well, that's how it should be done... and can be as a one-man show on a Gen3 that has enough spring pressure to keep the cartridge from spinning while you get that bottom bolt out. Helps to dial the preload all the way in beforehand. On Gen1/2, the springs are weak, so you really need to have the fork in a vice (horizontal) and someone compressing the fork as much as possible while someone spins out that lower bolt (with speed, i.e., an impact gun).
What happens if you get stuck (bolt and cartridge spins but bolt won't come out), you can make a simple tool to hold the cartridge nut (mid-way in the fork) while you turn that lower bolt out.
Keep yer stick on the ice........... (Red Green)
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.

Post Reply