What did you do to your FJR today?

[wheatonFJR]

Otherwise, you'll be getting things jammed up in there most likely.

Geez, I bet that would suck.

Bwahahaha!!!!!

[FJRoss]

Next week: AK-20 forks. For some reason I thought the shock would be easier than the forks. But this was only my 2nd linkage shock surgery and I've done fork seals probably 20 times. This will be first FJR.

I will be interested in your experience with the forks with the AK-20 setup. I think I will likely have to replace seals (and bushings) soon on my 2011 - will try the Sealmate thing one more time. (Second time it was needed on each fork this season.)

When Traxxion does these for Gen II bikes, they leave out the middle bushing. This is the one that is most problematic when taking it apart and the one that requires a special tool to set when reassembling. I have only done one set of Gen II forks (my 2007) and that was working with someone who had both the correct tools and the experience of doing these. One fork popped apart very easily but we had a helluva time with the second one!! Did manage to get almost 100,000 miles before I had any new leaks.

[raYzerman]

I know I keep saying this, but the stock valving is quite good (not race design, but good). Before making that big $$$ jump, install Traxxion's fork spring upgrade (straight rate) first and I guarantee you will notice a great improvement. I say Traxxion because it's a plug and play kit, no messing around with spacers/calculating/cutting. Fork spring upgrade IMHO is the best bang for the buck.... or ~U$130 bucks. Ride it for a season with the new springs, then decide if you really need to spend a g-note plus.
Often considered leaving the middle bushing out, but since I made the tool..... the problem is when slide hammering out, the bottom bushing can slip inside the middle, then jam when slammed against that beatch of an upper. BFH rubber hammer to unstick it unless you really did it... and in that case, it can earn you a nickname. Use heat!!
I have been fortunate enough to unstick some pretty bad ones... often wished I had a press like FYB has.

[FJRoss]

I know I keep saying this, but the stock valving is quite good (not race design, but good). Before making that big $$$ jump, install Traxxion's fork spring upgrade (straight rate) first and I guarantee you will notice a great improvement. I say Traxxion because it's a plug and play kit, no messing around with spacers/calculating/cutting. Fork spring upgrade IMHO is the best bang for the buck.... or ~U$130 bucks. Ride it for a season with the new springs, then decide if you really need to spend a g-note plus.
Often considered leaving the middle bushing out, but since I made the tool..... the problem is when slide hammering out, the bottom bushing can slip inside the middle, then jam when slammed against that beatch of an upper. BFH rubber hammer to unstick it unless you really did it... and in that case, it can earn you a nickname. Use heat!!
I have been fortunate enough to unstick some pretty bad ones... often wished I had a press like FYB has.

I agree. My '07, which I bought slightly used (20,000 km), had the original springs replaced with Hyperpro springs by the original owner (as well as a Penske shock). Never had any problem or concern with this setup.

The 2011 that I bought 2.5 years ago came with the full Traxxion AK-20 setup and the Penske rear shock as well. If I didn't already have the AK-20, I am not sure whether I would have made the investment - probably not. Not sure when the original owner had the suspension done but the bike currently has right around 120,000 km on it - likely past time for bushings and seals anyway. Penske shock needs a refresh as well.

[N4HHE]

I've done I dunno how many FJR's... note, upper bushing is an interference fit more than any other bike I've worked on. Can slide hammer out, but on an FJR, remove the dirt deflector shields and heat up the lower tubes hot at the bushing area before attempting to slide hammer the bushings/seal out. Otherwise, you'll be getting things jammed up in there most likely.
Best done clamped horizontally in a solid vice.

A bit concerned about heating the aluminum too much. Read that some manage to disassemble the FJR without heat so I'm thinking I shouldn't be able to overheat or burn anything with boiling water.

On WP forks holding the slider in one hand and fork tube in the other worked great for slide hammer extraction of the top bushing.

Everything is buttoned up now. First ride Sunday. First impression is the shock is stiffer, has the 850 spring which might explain everything, and might be longer as the rear wheel is barely off the ground on centerstand.

The final thing was to put 1/4" ID vinyl hose over this hard/soft lever mount stud and slit 3/8" ID vinyl hose over the reservoir hose. Vinyl not shown.

[N4HHE]

I will be interested in your experience with the forks with the AK-20 setup. I think I will likely have to replace seals (and bushings) soon on my 2011 - will try the Sealmate thing one more time. (Second time it was needed on each fork this season.)

When Traxxion does these for Gen II bikes, they leave out the middle bushing. This is the one that is most problematic when taking it apart and the one that requires a special tool to set when reassembling. I have only done one set of Gen II forks (my 2007) and that was working with someone who had both the correct tools and the experience of doing these. One fork popped apart very easily but we had a helluva time with the second one!! Did manage to get almost 100,000 miles before I had any new leaks.

Dan @ Traxxion advised leaving the 3rd out. Took the 3rd out of my 2003 KTM 450 EXC too.

Yamaha P/N 4SV-W003B-00-00 is the 2016 FJR fork seal kit, only $24 from Rocky Mountain. Said to be $30 MSRP.

[gixxerjasen]

When you slide hammer, kind of act like you are trying to flex the fork, don't pull it 100% smooth and straight.

[raYzerman]

I heat the fork with a propane torch all around the top bushing area, takes less than a minute. Hot water won't cut it, not nearly hot enough. No you don't want to melt aluminum (600 deg.?), but 300 or so sounds about right. Yes to what Jasen says.
Penske's are ride height adjustable, yours is likely a little longer than stock. Ratio of suspension pivot is roughly 2.7:1.

[danh600]

Right foot found nothing but air, for quite a ways, and the bike was getting over center. Try as I might, I could not hold it and struggled it slowly on to the right side.

We've all been there my friend. Sorry you got into such an awkward situation. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Bell Mountain Rd has no place to stop...you have to run it all the way to the top...which is hard on a 1 1/4 lane road if oncoming traffic is there. Very steep 20% grade at some spots I would guess. Jwilly gave me and Duane/1911 the tour.

I went up that road with Bill Lumberg. I am glad no one was coming down.

It is steep!

[FJRoss]

I will be interested in your experience with the forks with the AK-20 setup. I think I will likely have to replace seals (and bushings) soon on my 2011 - will try the Sealmate thing one more time. (Second time it was needed on each fork this season.)

When Traxxion does these for Gen II bikes, they leave out the middle bushing. This is the one that is most problematic when taking it apart and the one that requires a special tool to set when reassembling. I have only done one set of Gen II forks (my 2007) and that was working with someone who had both the correct tools and the experience of doing these. One fork popped apart very easily but we had a helluva time with the second one!! Did manage to get almost 100,000 miles before I had any new leaks.

Dan @ Traxxion advised leaving the 3rd out. Took the 3rd out of my 2003 KTM 450 EXC too.

Yamaha P/N 4SV-W003B-00-00 is the 2016 FJR fork seal kit, only $24 from Rocky Mountain. Said to be $30 MSRP.

What tool is needed to hold the AK-20 cartridge while loosening (or tightening) the lower bolt?

[wheatonFJR]

Rode at a relaxed pace on some nice unoccupied Curvy rural Pavement with great views of the mountains in the distance. Really enjoyed it. 46 in TR, 41 in Tigerville, 50s and sunny for most of the ride. Fortunately warm weather is coming, because cold winter weather sux. Wayne would have been proud of the tread depth on these tires.







<snerk >

[Toter]

Gave Renee a little lovin today after dropping her Friday. Removed the left side lowering peg bracket, and readjusted both the shifter and the brake pedal. Also noticed that the right highway peg Garauld bracket was bent out. Highway peg was what kept the front engine guard and slider from touching down. Had to place it on flat steel, and pound it back straight. Repainted and reinstalled. I hope Renee forgives me for treating her so badly.

[Toter]

Sitting in the woods now hoping to see a buck this eveningl

[Hppants]

Home safe after 1750 miles over 5 days.

Arkansas was nice.

Ride report to follow.

[danh600]

Took a ride with 5 other guys including my son-in-law. Everyone had adventure bikes but me. No worries. On the way up Shake Rag Rd. to Bell Mountain, right at the steepest uphill right turn, I meet an SUV coming down. Because of the steepness and drop of the road on the inside of the turn, I tried to stay more in the center. When I saw the SUV, I stopped, and put my feet down. Right foot found nothing but air, for quite a ways, and the bike was getting over center. Try as I might, I could not hold it and struggled it slowly on to the right side. Thankfully the guy in the car quickly jumped out to help me right the bike. The T-Rex engine guard and slider never touched down. The bag guard touched down and protected the bag and exhaust. Only casualty was the peg lowering bracket, it sheared off. Guy put it in my pocket and I rode the rest of the way to the top. Was able to remove the bracket and installed peg as normal. First tIme I have dropped a bike since my dirt bike days. This just hastens the removal of the lowering brackets. I was dragging both sides on Wolf Pen Gap before this incident. Surprised the bracket sheared off, but it really was supporting almost all of the bike weight and sheared at a quite thin area. The bracket and bag guard are the only parts that touched down. Cardinal sin was stopping, but the car was occupying the space I was headed for. If I had just paused and continued forward quickly, it would not have happened. That was probably the only spot on that road where a full stop was not possible. But, dumbass that I am, I found it! Bruised ego, but no real damage. I was very lucky! T-Rex bag guard saved the bike!

This must be you in this post over at ADVrider.com

https://advrider.com/f/threads/red-buds ... t-41061312

[Toter]

Yep, that's me. Didn't know know he posted the ride.

[danh600]

Yep, that's me. Didn't know know he posted the ride.

It's funny cause I check his thread over there from time to time. I like riding the area he lives in. Never met the guy just like looking at his log once in awhile to get some info on N. GA.

I was reading that post and thinking this story sounds familiar. I have read something just like that somewhere. I came back and found your post.

[Toter]

He took a lot of pictures while riding, fast I might add. He didn't cut that old GS any slack.

[Hppants]

Red Bud's stuff on ADV is way cool. I'd really like to meet him one day, and ride with him. Envious.

[raYzerman]

I will be interested in your experience with the forks with the AK-20 setup. I think I will likely have to replace seals (and bushings) soon on my 2011 - will try the Sealmate thing one more time. (Second time it was needed on each fork this season.)

When Traxxion does these for Gen II bikes, they leave out the middle bushing. This is the one that is most problematic when taking it apart and the one that requires a special tool to set when reassembling. I have only done one set of Gen II forks (my 2007) and that was working with someone who had both the correct tools and the experience of doing these. One fork popped apart very easily but we had a helluva time with the second one!! Did manage to get almost 100,000 miles before I had any new leaks.

Dan @ Traxxion advised leaving the 3rd out. Took the 3rd out of my 2003 KTM 450 EXC too.

Yamaha P/N 4SV-W003B-00-00 is the 2016 FJR fork seal kit, only $24 from Rocky Mountain. Said to be $30 MSRP.

What tool is needed to hold the AK-20 cartridge while loosening (or tightening) the lower bolt?

I'll give you my spin (no AK-20 experience)..... stock nut on cartridge is 26mm.
Two ways to do it...
1. If you have aftermarket springs, crank preload down all the way, mount fork in vice, undo lower bolt with electric or pneumatic impact wrench. Speed is the key. IF you have OEM (weak) springs, have someone additionally compress the fork using a piece of plywood on your chest to push against, thus increasing preload (remove OEM rebound adjust knobs first so you don't damage them).
2. Get a ~14" length of 1" thin wall square tubing, at one end slit up the corners 1/2". Bend "tabs" out until minimum opening is 27mm. This becomes a tapered wrench. With fork cap/springs removed, slide this wrench down the cartridge over the 26mm nut. Adjust bend of tabs if necessary to get good engagement. Hold with pliers or drill a hole in it and use a screwdriver as a lever, undo lower bolt while holding cartridge.