Sputter and Pipe discoloration

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philharmonic
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Re: Sputter and Pipe discoloration

Post by philharmonic » Tue May 14, 2019 8:43 am

You need to buy a set of Iridium plugs to put in there, those look atrocious.
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ionbeam
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Re: Sputter and Pipe discoloration

Post by ionbeam » Tue May 14, 2019 8:46 am

Color & soot don't look so bad to me, my Gen I ran fine and had worse color/soot than your plugs.

From the pictures the plugs look really worn out. How old are they? Take a look at a new plug, the center electrode should have a sharp edge all the way around and side electrode end should have a sharp edge facing the center electrode. It is much easier to initiate an arc between sharp edges than rounded edges. When the sharp 90° edges start to round it's time to replace the plugs.
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Re: Sputter and Pipe discoloration

Post by raYzerman » Tue May 14, 2019 9:57 am

What Alan said..... Plug pics 2 & 3 are what to look at, mostly the center ceramic insulator. They look not bad for colour, I've seen worse, but they could be lighter.... I vote for new ones too but doubt that's the underlying issue. IF something is telling the ECU to run rich/lean/erratic, again I'd check that ignition pickup wire around the right side timing cover, ensure it's not pinched. You might have to pull the fairing out and poke around, more likely it would be on top side but check it all. Normally, this would only be an issue if the right side cover has been off previously as in doing a valve check or CCT change kind of thing.
One other issue for cause of poor idling, the MAP sensor having rubber lube/crud in the vac port, or the hose(s) that provide that vacuum are plugged with crud... it's the black thing on top of the TB's with two screws and an electrical connector and a vacuum hose coming in the bottom. Inspect & clean it anyway. Rare issue, if the MAP sensor takes a sharp bump, the two halves of the housing can separate, can you spell obvious vacuum leak and poor function.. it will snap back together 99% of the time.

Edit add - For the ECU to think it's cold and run a richer mix, it would point to the intake ambient air temperature sensor in the airbox. Or again a pinched wire. That wire runs along the top of the airbox, then has been known to get trapped between the end cap of the airbox.... the one you have to remove to service the air cleaner (4 sheet metal type screws I think). You can route it towards the rear (hiding under the fuel tank/seat bracket).
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ericboutin
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Re: Sputter and Pipe discoloration

Post by ericboutin » Tue May 14, 2019 10:41 pm

Hppants wrote:
Tue May 14, 2019 8:20 am
Definitely some sooting and build up on those plugs. If they were removed from a 80s vintage GM small block, I'd say no problem. But I've seen enough FJR plugs and I can attest that your bike is definitely running rich. Since we don't have the same view of all of them, it's hard to say if one hole is the worst. However, the #2 (3rd from R) seems to be the worst from the angles I can see.

Have you run the diagnostics to see if you have any engine codes stored? While under the tank, check all wiring connections to sensors?
Yes and no new codes. I've been plugging and unplugging everything I can touch looking for some kind of messed up wires. Thanks for your insights, I will be getting new plugs for sure.
---------------------------

Thanks Eric

2004 Yamaha FJR 1300 Non ABS
2006 Suzuki GS 500F - Wife's now taken over by my 18 year old daughter! Sadly SOLD...July 25, 2018

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ericboutin
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Re: Sputter and Pipe discoloration

Post by ericboutin » Tue May 14, 2019 11:08 pm

raYzerman wrote:
Tue May 14, 2019 9:57 am
What Alan said..... Plug pics 2 & 3 are what to look at, mostly the center ceramic insulator. They look not bad for colour, I've seen worse, but they could be lighter.... I vote for new ones too but doubt that's the underlying issue. IF something is telling the ECU to run rich/lean/erratic, again I'd check that ignition pickup wire around the right side timing cover, ensure it's not pinched. You might have to pull the fairing out and poke around, more likely it would be on top side but check it all. Normally, this would only be an issue if the right side cover has been off previously as in doing a valve check or CCT change kind of thing.
One other issue for cause of poor idling, the MAP sensor having rubber lube/crud in the vac port, or the hose(s) that provide that vacuum are plugged with crud... it's the black thing on top of the TB's with two screws and an electrical connector and a vacuum hose coming in the bottom. Inspect & clean it anyway. Rare issue, if the MAP sensor takes a sharp bump, the two halves of the housing can separate, can you spell obvious vacuum leak and poor function.. it will snap back together 99% of the time.

Edit add - For the ECU to think it's cold and run a richer mix, it would point to the intake ambient air temperature sensor in the airbox. Or again a pinched wire. That wire runs along the top of the airbox, then has been known to get trapped between the end cap of the airbox.... the one you have to remove to service the air cleaner (4 sheet metal type screws I think). You can route it towards the rear (hiding under the fuel tank/seat bracket).
Ok I've got these on order....
NGK # 4218 Iridium Spark Plugs CR8EIX ---- 8 PCS

The old plugs have right at 20,000 miles on them.

I will do everything you've suggested here in the next couple days. We did do the CCT change out at one of Mr. Griff's Tech/Wrech days but that has been a couple years ago I believe and it has been running fine until now.

I will check the MAP and the temp sensor on top on air box also. Mr. Griff graciously donated his old Service manual so finding all these sensors etc that you're talking about is much easier now.

Thanks again for all the help. I need to get busy and will report back
---------------------------

Thanks Eric

2004 Yamaha FJR 1300 Non ABS
2006 Suzuki GS 500F - Wife's now taken over by my 18 year old daughter! Sadly SOLD...July 25, 2018

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