FJRoss wrote: ↑
Wed Apr 08, 2020 3:16 pm
I use a bit of dielectric grease on the ABS sensor housing...So if today was tiring, will next week be exhausting?
Well, yes, I will be exhausted next week. Sort of. My Cobra heat shield grew a very nice carpet of rust over the winter that needs fixin' and I have some Simichrome polish that will spruce up the cans.
My cars have had 'snake pit' equal length headers that fry spark plug boots even with heat shielding around the boots. I have some silicon boot release grease for the plugs that will be repurposed to the ABS sensor. This grease will also find its way onto my coil-overs when I do my plugs.
extrememarine wrote: ↑
Wed Apr 08, 2020 3:47 pm
I've rotated mine to have even wear of the front pads. I do have a set of OEM take-offs should I need them; I've been running the EBC HH pads.
I do rotate my pads when I clean the calipers. My OEM take-offs are for a Gen I
The new pads will be sintered EBC HH, these are the pads I have put on all my bikes. I find that I usually have to use a pad backing because the tend to squeak unless the rotors are smooth.
Hppants wrote: ↑
Thu Apr 09, 2020 8:57 am
...I cleaned up the pins and put a SMALL dab/film of lubriplate on them...
Regarding the pistons, I take a dry toothbrush and just try to knock off all of the dirt. Doing this always concerns me that I'm going to shove some dirt under the boot and that may make the piston seals vulnerable. Alan - I'd be interested in learning more about technically how your clean your brake calipers during pad service.
As long as I diligently keep the moving parts clean I don't use a lubricant on most brake parts. I haven't been as diligent as normal and deserve what I got with my front brake pads -- a self inflicted wound. I do have some Lubriplate leftover from drum brake days; I may be mistaken but I don't think the 110 calcium Lubriplate is recommended for disk brakes.
Every time I service my brakes I clean everything. I use a paint safe spray brake cleaner and -- -- -- toothbrushes. I collect clean
toothbrushes in different styles and sizes, I have a coffee can full of brushes. (If someone were to hear me as I work you would be able to hear the calipers being instructed on good hygiene.) I have had very good results using CRC Brākleen but it isn't sold in some states. Wear gloves, do not ingest, do not spray directly into eyes... I have some child size brushes and some adult brushes that have varying bristle types which make a good crud buster with the brake cleaner. I have run out of pipe cleaners but haven't needed them anyplace on the FJR. Paper towel, if you can find any these days, can be rolled into long snakes that can be slipped into tight spaces.
To clean the slider pins I gently chuck the pins in a portable drill or my drill press, then at low speed I give them a light rubbing with fine (red) Scotch Brite as they spin, then flip ends and do the other half. After that is done I roll them on a flat surface to be sure they are straight. After cleaning the pad support (spring clip) I put it on the flat surface to be sure it isn't distorted.
I try to service one caliper at a time. With the caliper off I put on a set of really worn pads then using something the thickness of the rotor I gently press the brake until the worn pads just touches the simulated rotor then pull out the 'rotor' and remove the worn pads. This extends the pistons as far as practical. Clean the pistons and seal area. Push the dry, clean pistons back into the caliper bore. I extend the rear piston the same way as the fronts and give the piston and seal area a good cleaning, push in the piston and continue with the cleaning. I can usually spin the brake piston by hand to get good access all the way around the parts. It remains to be seen how this will go with the four piston front calipers. You do not want the extra work of accidentally popping out one or more caliper pistons.